11/19/2022 0 Comments Ps1 controller pinoutThe power on/off and standby functions are all activated by pin 4 when grounded to pin 2 (power off or standby is determined by how long the switch is held in position.) The switch basically works like the other buttons and activates these functions by grounding pins 1, 3, or 4 to pin 2. This may be useful if you have a broken power switch and want to send the On/Off/Standby and Hold functions out to an external controller or switch. I applied a little superglue to the wires to secure them to each other and keep them in shape. Once all the wires are soldered its a good idea to check everything again with a multimeter, then adjust your wires so they will not interfere with the fit of other components (picture 2). €¢ Inspect under magnification to ensure there is a good bond and no bridged pins €¢ Hold the wire very still for a couple seconds while the solder cools €¢ Carefully touch iron tip to the back of the wire (the flux on the wire and pin should help the solder bond quickly with the pin) €¢ Hold the wire firmly in place against connector pin with tweezers €¢ Clean all excess solder f-rom iron tip €¢ Dip tinned wire end back into flux again €¢ Touch the tip of the wire to the iron to transfer a small amount of solder €¢ Melt a small amount of solder onto iron tip €¢ Strip a short amount at the end of the wire So for each of the five points this was the basic procedure: Because the pins are so small and close together, I decided not to add any solder to them directly, as it is very easy to bridge them with excess solder. Next apply a little flux to the pins you are going to be soldering to. To begin, clean the pins on the back of the connector with some rubbing alcohol. It has a set of gator clips and a magnifying glass on adjustable arms, plus a soldering iron holder that I continually burn myself on. I use a cheap ($15 at RadioShack) "helping hands" soldering clamp that is very useful for this type of precise work. A good solder point for the right trigger button can be found at one end of this connector, as well as alternative points for the other powerboard connections. The picture below shows the connector pinout for the cable that links the powerboard and motherboard. For the button bar connections it is similar, except these are blind vias, so you have to go through the top. If you use 30awg wire you can run the wires under the board and poke the wire up through the holes, then just apply a little solder and trim away any excess wire. Once the points described have been broken out, the second half focuses on two methods for using a Dualshock Playstation controller as a PSP input device, one using an AVR microcontroller to interpret data from the controller (which doesn't involve modifying the controller), and the other by modifying the controller and hardwiring all connections directly.įor the X /\ and O buttons, I found it easiest to solder through the vias on the powerboard. The first half of this post covers the location of physical solder points within a PSP-1000, from which all button and joystick input can be broken out. Also, to circumvent a bizarre bug in the forum that is triggered by certain keywords, some words such as "s-elect", "u-pdate", and "f-rom", will appear hyphenated for seemingly no good reason. Like before, everyone is welcome to copy, edit, repost, and improve upon these images in any way they would like to. Apologies to all for the inconvenience, the images are now back again. The image links in this post had been dead for some time and many people have contacted me requesting that this be fixed.
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